Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
